A New Chapter in Fashion History!

The year 1920 is marked as a turning point in the world of fashion. 1910 saw the silhouette rise to prominence, which was much more fluid and soft. But it was the 1920’s when fashion truly entered a modern era. Two distinctive styles characterize the 1920s; the first was relatively conservative in nature and it was only in the second half that changes started to take root.

The ‘Golden Age’ commenced with the end of World War l, and this had a great impact on all socio-cultural aspects of society including fashion. Men were busy with the war, giving women the opportunity to get out in the world as professionals. Obviously, gowns weren’t the best options for the workplace so their outfit changed to accommodate comfort. Women stared wearing pleated skirts with slits to allow movements. Women also started wearing loose pant suits that were called ‘pajama suits’.

The 1920s was filled with lively colors; designers included colors in every article of clothing. The burgeoning entertainment industry influenced the era in a major way, and Vogue magazine was also started in the 20s. Corsets became a thing of the past, while silhouettes for this decade became loose and shapeless with lighter fabrics taking center stage.

A new class of women known as ‘The Flappers’ emerged, changing women’s fashion dramatically in this era. Flappers were known to dance to jazz music, drank, smoked and had casual relationships. 

             

                                

Women cut their hair into a bob, which inspired hats that were smaller and more fitted. Hats were as colorful as the outfits themselves.

           

                                      

After hats, purses and handbags were the favored accessories. In fact, they were considered ‘eye-candy’. They came with beautiful beading and in materials like silk. Women would make one, if they were unable to afford it. In Jewelry pins and brooches were popular as they would stylishly hold clothes together.

Bathing suits made a very controversial entry during this time. They were initially very unflattering and uncomfortable, but the mid 20s saw swimsuits gain a new identity by way of form-fitting suits and vibrant colors.

Men’s fashion saw a fair few changes during the decade. Suits became slimmer with wide legged trousers, while short suit jackets were preferred and the long jacket from the previous decade was donned solely on formal occasions. V-neck sweaters with white trousers became famous. During the mid 20s, men went for shirts with attached collars, which when compared to detachable collars were much softer.  

The 1920s was packed with more fashion trends than any amount of words could suffice for. The vibrancy and liveliness of the decade are not going to end here. There is way too much to talk about, and this is just the start! 

Flapping Fashion from the 1920s

Before world war one, women wore floor-length dresses, the waist was cinched restrained by the corset and arms and legs were always covered. But then the war ended, times changed and the world grandly entered the Roaring Twenties!

The 1920s witnessed many changes one of which was the social position of women. The 19^th Amendment passed during this time gave women the right to vote. Women had joined the workforce during the war and life beyond homemaking appealed to them.

Fashion along with every aspect of the society, had an impact. There were two distinctive styles that ruled the 1920s, the first half had a more conservative outlook, but as the roaring twenties took root women became more liberal. The latter half of the decade saw a new class of women called the ‘The Flapper’.

Flapper was the slang word, which used to refer to young bird flapping its wings while learning to fly. In 1631, the word ‘flap’ was slang for a young prostitute, but over the centuries the meaning underwent a change. In the 1920 when women wore their galoshes unbuckled it would make a flapping noise as they walked. But flappers represented women who rebelled against the norms of the society and adopted unconventional ways.

As the fussiness of prewar years dropped away, women forsook the restrictive corsets and ridiculous petticoats of bygone years. The la garconne became the new fashion, where women desired to have a figure like a teenage boy. To flatten the bust line a piece of cloth was tied around the chest. The waist was dropped to the hip in order to hide their womanly hourglass figures. The typical flappers cropped their hair into boyish bobs, they wore make-up, began to wear shorter, straight loose-fitting garments that allowed far greater freedom of movement.

Once the war ended morals and rule went for a toss. Entertainment gained importance; silent movies were on the rise and fashion magazines like Vogue was started. Instant gratification became the mantra and the night life came alive. The flappers with their new fashioned clothes, red lips and dark eyes frequented the illegal clubs where they danced to jazz music all night long, and had affairs, indiscriminately. 

They drove cars, drank, a defiant act in the American period of prohibition, and smoked through a long cigarette holder. The decade was a reckless abandonment of propriety.  

The morals may have diminished during this period but fashion sense acquired a new sensibility. Stocking attracted new attention. With the dress losing length women flaunted their stockings. 

Women would wear a string of pearls that are typical of that age. The light weight, sequenced dresses are something that still exists. The flappers revolutionized fashion added jazz into it and made the life of the coming generations a lot easier and more colorful!   

Iconic 1920’s Fashion Designers

The twentieth started with a buzz of activities. The First World War ended ushering the roaring twenties. The year 1920 was a witness tremendous change, women gained the right to vote; clubs opened-up, jazz music was played, Hollywood and Vogue gained prominence and the need for liberalization took root. Fashion too liberalized; the flappers came into picture and fashion entered the modern era. This modernization of fashion was the working the few iconic fashion designers of the 20s. Here are the people who created fashion in the 1920s.

Coco Chanel

“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.”- Coco Chanel

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, popularly known as Coco Chanel was born in 1883. Chanel liberated women form the restrictions of the corsets and popularized a more masculine look. Borrowing the details from menswear Channel created two or three piece suits. She made the suits elegant with matching blouses, stylishly lined jackets and pleated skirts. Channel pioneered the iconic ‘little black dress’ something that is still found in women’s wardrobes. Cardigan jacket was another one of Chanel’s signature creations. Chanel introduced a perfume, Chanel No. 5 which is still popular. Coco Chanel had a classic and powerful style with a lasting legacy that has influenced decades of fashion.

Jean Patou

“Certain dressmakers desire to pass for an artist. I have one ambition: that is to have good taste.”- Jean Patou

Jean Patou, a lesser known brand today than Chanel, but in the 1920s they both ruled. He is credited with creating the ‘designer tie’ for men and pioneered the boyish gaeconne look for women. He was praised for his ultramodern and sporty style. When Suzanne Lenglen, the French tennis star wore Patou’s long white sleeveless cardigan and a fly-away white pleated skirt for her game it became sensational news. He left his mark when he created the most expensive fragrance ‘Joy’ that is still loved by people. He also created the first suntan lotion. Jean Patou had an extravagant way of living yet his designs were simple, youthfully classic and most importantly wearable.

Elsa Schiaparelli

“In difficult times fashion is always outrageous.”- Elsa Schiaparelli

In the 1920s Italian-born Elsa Schiaparelli was considered Chanel’s biggest rival. She is remembered for her coveted black knit sweaters with a white bow tie design. She was strongly inspired by Surrealist like Salvador Dali. She was wild and whimsical, something that is clearly visible in her creations. She created prints that were wild, unique outfits and distinctive hats one of which is her lamb chop topper that was shaped like a large shoe. Unfortunately, she could not adapt to the changing fashion of the post world war ll and her business ceased in 1954.     

Madeleine Vionnet

“When a woman smiles the dress must smile with her.”Madeleine Vionnet

The Queen of the bias cut and the Architect among dressmakers are the few names Madeleine Vionnet achieved in her lifetime. Influenced by the architecture, geometry and dance of that time Vionnet innovated, the bias-cut gowns that were sleek, form-fitting and fluid in their making. She is best known for her elegant Grecian style dresses.

Jeanne Lanvin

“A design inevitably reflects the artistic motifs stored in one’s memory, drawing on those which are the most alive, new and fertile all at the same time”- Jeanne Lancvin

Lanvin had blurred the lines between children’s and women’s wear and by the 1920s had come-up with a more youthful and sporty look. She made simple styles into elaborated fashion by using decorations and embroideries, a 1920 character. She made luxe fabric and pleated skirts famous among royalty and Hollywood.  

Fashion Icons from 1920

The year 1920 is marked by many significant events which has had a great influence on the following years and still continue to do so. Women obtained the right to vote, the roaring twenties took root, the jazz age bring the flappers along. There were was a burst of modern fashion as magazines like Vogue came into the market. Hollywood was another indulgence people started liking. Many silent films were made and later in the decade movie talkies came over. Movies have always influenced the society and more importantly fashion. Numerous films were released during this time that inspired fashion and created some of the loved fashionable icons of all time.

Louise Brooks 

Louise Brooks was one of the most famous icons of not only the 20s, but later too. Leaving behind a tragic childhood she entered the world of glamour. Though dancer and showgirl, it was the status of a silent film star that brought her recognition. 

Louise Brooks 

Leading roles in films like the Pandora’s Box and Diary of a Lost Girl made her famous. The bob cut hair that is associated with the flappers was popularized by Brookes who often wore it with bangs or a fringe.

Greta Garbo

Pole apart from Brooks we have Greta Garbo, she had such a great talent for acting, the likes of which are rare to find nowadays. Garbo was said to be enticingly beautiful, but it was her voice that she is most remembered for. She had a smooth, soft and seductive voice that won thousands of hearts.

Rudolph Valentino

In the 1920, Hollywood produced the first mega star Rudolph Valentino. More popularly known as ‘The Sheik’ and ‘Latin Lover’ Valentino was a style icon. Wearing wristwatches, gaucho pants and slicked back hair were his signature look which soon followed by many young men. 

Clara Bow 

The ‘it girl’ of the 20s, Clara Bow is another style icon who reflected a more playful side of the flapper spirit. Bow made wavy bob, pencil thin eyebrows and Cupid’s bow pout popular on screen. She was typically seen in short pleated skirts, berets or headscarves and she had a thing for fur trimmed coats.

Mary Pickford

Mary Pickford, though another fashion icon of the 20s contradicted the flapper style. Known as the ‘American Sweetheart’ she looked innocent in her ringlets and frilly gowns. In 1929 she won the first Academy Award for the best actress for a talking picture ‘Coquette’.

This decade saw a rise of a lot of icons like Colleen Moore, Josephine Baker andDolores Del Rio whose influence is still visible. The accelerated growth of Hollywood made sure there was never a shortage of fashion icons!